In the days leading up to a big ride like this, a fair amount of map scrutiny goes on along with the odd sharp intake of breath at the sight of a route profile which contains far too many pointy bits for comfort, but still you can never quite envisage what the road ahead will bring. Occasionally, too, a ride that you aren’t expecting to be too much of a problem rears up and bites you in the saddle sore. The first half of stage 17 from Pau to the Col de Soulor / Aucun was definitely one of those rides.
You can forgive us for our complacency when you consider that the profile a few days ago included three major cols, finishing with the Tourmalet. So relative to that, surely a day with only two cols has got to be reasonably simple right? Wrong, not when the first one is the Marie Blanque, with its sadistic final 4k average gradient of 13% and there follows an undulating 50 miles which delivers you nicely empty to the bottom of the Col de Soulor on one of the hottest days the Pyrenees experienced this summer. As I keep saying, this was supposed to be a challenge after all and I think most of the team agree that day five was probably the pinnacle of said challenge.
According to Dave, our friendly guide from Sporting Tours, the Marie Blanque is one of the pros’ most feared climbs in the Tour. It’s not particularly long, nor is it particularly high. It’s steep and straight, offering very little respite in the form of hairpin bends. For the most part, you pass those handy little elevation and gradient signs, which kindly remind you of the level of torture you will experience over the following kilometre and you are then treated to a fine view of the full extent of the Marie Blanque’s steepness straight up the road in front of you.
The relief on everyone’s faces was clear to see as they dived into the back of the team van at the summit in search of a sugar rush. But with a full 130km to cover that day, once photos and formalities were over, we didn’t waste much time in setting off on the descent. The downhill was spectacular, a real epic through sweeping bends down a glorious open pasture valley.
Over the next few miles we headed straight into hot wind. And it really was hot, not warm, hot! It is the weirdest of sensations for us Brits and about as far removed from what blows in off the Channel in Sussex as you can get. I found it strangely pleasant at first, but was soon cursing it when I realised how much it was draining me of energy with another 25k still to cover to the foot of the Soulor.
The climb of the Soulor from the north will forever remain in my mind as one of the most power sapping hours on a bike that I have ever experienced. Again on any given day, ridden on its own it wouldn’t be too bad. [Yes it would – ed.] But the heat and the miles we already had in our legs combined to transform it into a formidable beast. The view was stunning but the heat nearly knocked me out. Various bike computer and iPhone temperature claims ranged from 45 – 48 degrees C in the sun, making the sight of the cafe, as it appeared mirage-like on the summit, very, very welcome.
So that was job done for the day. Our hotel for the night was back down the valley in the direction of the Tourmalet and it is amazing how quickly the pain subsides when there is a descent in store.
Back at the hotel we received a Mac update from Pau Hospital. He has suffered a broken collarbone and five broken ribs, some of which were broken in several places. Fortunately, none have been displaced, which should make the healing process slightly simpler for Mac. Our thoughts are with him and we know he’s going to be frustrated as hell! Hang in there, big guy.
We awoke to fairly clear skies on the final day, so there was hope over breakfast that we might actually get to see the Tourmalet on our second visit of the week to its summit. Unlike several other days which preceded, this morning began with a pleasant 10k spin downhill into Argeles Gazost, at which point the road starts to rise again, albeit gently at first, and then you realise that it doesn’t actually flatten out again until the top of the Tourmalet, almost 20 miles away. We rode on quarter gas up the first part of the valley to Luz St. Sauveur, preserving as much in the tanks as we could for when the road really kicks between Luz and Barreges.
I actually enjoyed a relatively steady, pain free climb to the summit, but it still baffles me how anyone could actually race up that hill. As I rode I couldn’t help but think back to the way Andy Schleck and Alberto Contador danced up the same climb, over the same painted messages in the roads a few weeks ago – climbing it myself and feeling every turn of the pedals in my legs makes their pace seem truly mind-blowing.
We rounded the final bend and caught site of the big silver cyclist statue gleaming in the hot sun, marking the official end of the 2010 Guide Dogs Le Tour Challenge. As Fraser and I reached the top, there was no Schleck-like thrust for the line from either, just raised arms and pats on the back all round. Last climb done – tick. With only one last flying descent to our hotel in Bagneres de Bigorre to go, the job was done. 12 cols, 600km, six days – We made it.
So, looking back at my original aims for this ride, what did I achieve? Well firstly I enjoyed it hugely. If you love cycling and you love the Tour, this event has got it all. Would I do it again? Yes, without doubt. You might remember me saying that I have suffered with a cycling eating problem in the past, in that I never seemed to eat enough to fuel me properly through a ride! Well, I think I cracked that one too, eating BIG at every opportunity and just topping up with gels etc. Despite the moaning and tales of woe that you’ve read from me during this tour, there was never a moment where I felt I was hitting the wall. It hurt sure, but I knew I could finish each day strong.
And then there’s the racing. Errr… maybe I did just a little bit, especially on the descents. I think I realised pretty early on that there were guys who had clearly put in a lot more training than I had (well done Nick and Seth – awesome ride), so I would in no way be able to stay with the front of the group on the climbs. Having said that I was usually in the top eight or so over each col and although it wasn’t a race anyway, I’m pretty pleased with that performance, considering my grave reservations of a few weeks ago.
Altogether this year’s riders have raised over £30,000 for the Guide Dogs for the Blind, which is a massive achievement in itself. If you think you would be interested in taking part in the future, then the Guide Dogs Team are keen to recruit and swell the ranks for next year’s ride. I would imagine it will be back in the Alps, but nothing has been announced yet. Keep watching www.guidedogs.org.uk/helpus/events for details.
If you would like to sponsor me, my JustGiving page will also remain online until mid November at http://www.justgiving.com/Christopher-Williams2
Finally, a heartfelt well done to all the guys and one girl (top job Nikola) who battled their way through some tough times on those mountains emotionally and physically. Also huge thanks to the superb team from Sporting Tours International, who supported us throughout. It was a family affair this year and Dave, Wendy and Ian Bond did us proud.
Thanks for following the ride,
Chris Williams